System of drafting dress patterns



Oct. 25, 1932. .c. A. ZORN SYSTEM OF DRAFTING DRESS PATTERNS Filed March 5, 1928 4446/1 70? m Q 5y 5% J M Arrx Patented Oct. 25, 1932 1,884,494

UNETED STATES PATENT omen CHARLES A. ZORN, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI sYs'rEM or neuritis mmssmmmas Application filed March 5, 1928. Serial .No'. 259,034.

My invention relates to improvements in these points being spaced inwardly 2% inches system of drafting dress patterns, and has from the lines 1 and 3 respectively. for its primary object the system of drafting From the point 12 to the point 22, which is dress patternsin whichthe slope of the shoulwhere the'line 6 meets the line 1, is drawn a der will vary according tothe size of the dress diagonally extending line 14 and from the and in which the shoulder line is always point 11 to the point 21, being the meeting of properly defined. lines 6 and 3, is drawn the line 13. This gives A further object is the system of drafting the shoulder slope. dress patterns'in which one-half of the back Along the line 1 and downward from the 1 pattern and the front pattern are drawn and line 2,-a distance of three-quarters of an inch, then by the simple tracing off of these halves is marked a point 23. This point is connected ona sheet of folded paper, the, entire back by a'Cur'ved dotted line 24, forming one-half half or the entire front half of the pattern of the rear part of the neck opening. can be cut out. Downward from the line ,2 and along the In the drawing: line 3 and at a distance of 2% inches is placed 55 The figure illustrates the system of drafta point 25, the points 12 and being connecting the waist pattern. ed by a curved line, preferably dotted, 26. In the drafting of the pattern, I will first Measuringalong the chest line from the point describe the waist, the sizes shown being for where the line 10 intersects the same and toa regular 36. ward the line 1, a distance of 2 inches, is 7 The first step is to draw a rectangle complaced a point 16, and measuring a distance posed of lines 1, 2, 3 and 4, the lines 1 and 3 of 3 inches along the chest line and toward representing the center of the back and the the line 3 is a point 17. center of the front respectively, while line 2 Also measuring along the lines 13 and 14 25 represents the top line or top pointof the from the points 11 and 12 respectively a dis- 75 neck and line at the hip line. The lines'l and tance of 6 inches are placed points 1 9 and 20 3 are 24 inches long and the lines 2 and 4: are respectively, and at a distance of 1 inches 21 inches long. on the line 10 and downward from the line 6 After these lines have been drawn, care is a point 15. The points 19, 16, 15, 1 7 and being taken that a perfect rectangle is 20 are connected by a curved dotted line 27, 89 formed, I measure down from the line 2 and which is of suflicient size to make the arm along the lines 1 and 3 a distance of 3 inches hole, this being varied according to the size of and connect these points with a line 5, which the arm. In the ordinary 36, the length of is the blade line. I then measure down from this line would be 18 inches. the line 5 seven inches and draw the chest On the line 4 and to either side of the line line 6, which is parallel to lines 2 and 5. Then 10 are placed points 17a and 18' each about at a distance of 16 inches from the line 6 is one-half an inch from the line 10. These drawn the waist line 7, this line being paralpoints areconnecte'dto't'he point 15'by means lel to lines 2, 5 and 6. Lines 5, 6 and 7 are of lines 8 and 9 respectively. This completes 40 also, of course, parallel to the line 4. I next the draft for the waist pattern. I draw a vertical line parallel to the lines 1 and In making the pattern proper a sheet of 3. This vertical line is so located that it is paper is folded overupon' itself and the line one-fourth of an inch off center, being inch 1 laid along the folded edge; The pattern is closer to the line 1 than the line 3. In other then traced off in the following manner: 7 45 words, in the drawing illustrated the line 10, The line 1 is commenced at thepoint 1'8 and which is the vertical line, is 10% inches from drawn or tracedn'ntil the meeting point of the center of the back and 10% inches from this line with the linel is reached. The line the center of the front. 1 being along the fold of the paper is not Along the line 2 and inwardly from the traced. Next" commencing at the point 23, so lines 1 and 3, I next'make points 11 and 12, the arcuate or curved line 24. is traced until it meets the point 11. Then, the line 13 is traced down to the point 19 after which the contour of the line 27 is traced till it meets the int 15. Then the point 15 is connected to t e oint 18 by the line 9.

The ayout is then removed from the folded sheet of paper which folded sheet is then out along the lines traced after which the sheet is opened, and the complete back pattern is finished.

In laying out the front pattern the same rocedure is followed, that is the line 3 is aid along the folded edge of a sheet of paper which has been doubled upon itself. The line 4 is then drawn from the point 17a to the point'where this line meets the line 3. 7

Then commencing at the point the curved line 26 is traced until it meets the oint 1 2. From there the shoulder line 14 is olloweddown to the point 20, and the line 27 isfollowed to the point 15, and the points 15,a'nd 11 are connected by the line 8. Then after this layout has been removed, the front pattern is cut out in a similar manner. Thus, we have the two halves of the pattern.

In this layout I wish to state that allowance is made in the pattern for all seams except the shoulder seam, and when cutting out the cloth from the pattern additional goods must be allowed for the shoulder seam.

The foregoing pattern has been drafted for a standard size 36, the various dimensions having beendetermined from long experience and with thousands of figures, and being about the average dimensions for the average build. Where it is desired to draft a pattern for a different size garment, the distances between the top of the pattern and the lines 6, 7 and 4, respectively are maintained 7 constant, but the other distances are changed in the following degree, the sizes being determined from the bust measurement, as for example, the size 36" bust would be considered as size 36 pattern:

I riches 2% (Vary b Should the person for whom this pattern is being made be round shouldered, the point 19 is raised and the point 20 lowered, preferably about 1 of an inch. This will tend to throw the shoulder seam forward so that it will appear in the proper place on the wearer. If 59 the party for whom the pattern was made has very large hips, the points 17a and 18 are moved farther apart thereby creating more fullness at the hips.

- It will also be noted from the figure that I have placed a dash line 28 at a distance from the line 3. This, of course, would mean a wider pattern and it will be noted that as the pattern increases in width, the shoulder slope decreases in inclination so that by my system of layout or pattern drafting, the shoulder slope automatically varies as the size of the garment increases.

I wish it to be particularly understood that in the drawing the solid lines are what 1' term basic lines, while the dotted lines may be termed optional lines. By this I mean that the basic lines are fixed whereas the optional lines may have their contours changed within certain limits. In other words the lines 24, 26, 27, 8 and 9 may be moved from their position as shown to take care of certain variations necessary in the pattern. In all events the fixed lines are first sketched in and then the optional lines or dotted lines drawn in afterward. However, the method or system of laying out or drafting the patterns is not changed nor do the dimensions of the fixed lines and their distances'from each other vary for a standard pattern. Practically the only changes necessary are to provide for the hip measurement, the arm holes and the neck opening in the waist pattern.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim is:

The method of drafting dress patterns, which consists in drawing a rectangle of predetermined length equal to the distance from the top of the shoulder to the hip and of a width equal to one-half the bust size, drawing across said rectangle a chest line at a predetermined distance below and parallel to the top line of said rectangle, measuring inwardly along said top line of the rectangle a predetermined distance from each side edge based upon the size of the neck openin to locate the outermost points of the shoul ers, and then connecting each of said points with diagonal lines extending from the same to the furthermost points of intersection, respectively, of the chest line with the side edge lines, said diagonal lines determining the slope of the shoulders, and the shoulder slopes thereby decreasing proportionatelv and automatically according to increasing width of the pattern.

In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature.

CHARLES A. ZORN. 

